After the canceled ferry, things went pretty smoothly as we made it to the South Island and headed along the Western Coast seeing pancake rocks, glaciers and even a glimpse of Mount Cook, who’s usually pretty shy thanks to clouds. Then we spent a day visiting the most picturesque lakes in the whole country! Then we finish out the week with a trip to Paradise, ha! Come wander the South Island with us.
Nelson and Punamu Region
The advantage to flying over taking the ferry, is that in just 3 hours we made it all the way to Nelson with the new car. The original plan with the ferry would have taken more than 6 hours, although the views from the ferry are gorgeous.
Instead we arrived just in time to find some lunch at one of the wineries in the Marlborough region, just outside Nelson. There were interesting pizzas with local ingredients and some delicious wines for pairing. One of the wines they talked about storing in terracotta pots as part of the aging process, and on the way to find the restrooms we could a few in their wine making room.
After a lovely lunch we headed to a Japanese garden. There were fun bridges and vine wrapped pergola and structures that made us feel like we were in Japan again! Then it was time to check into our hotel and relax for a little bit.
While checking in, I got a call from our boat ride that afternoon that the sunset happy hour was downgraded to just the normal taxi shuttle that picked up hikers from around Abel Tasman National Park. It was a little disappointing but for the first half of the ride we had the boat to ourselves and the driver took us close to places like the split apple rock.
We even saw the heads of a few fur seals next to one of the islands, but they were pretty shy and didn’t come out of the water very far. It is unfortunate it was so cloudy that day, the highlight of Abel Tasman NP is the bright blue waters that practically glow in the sunlight. We did a hike there last time Mr. Wander and I visited NZ and it was a beautiful day, so if you get good weather it’s well worth the visit!
Most of New Zealand we were able to find family rooms and suites with kitchens or kitchenettes for less than two single hotel rooms so it’s actually nicer to travel with another couple. We made dinner for us all after we returned from the boat ride and turned in. In the morning we had to wait for a tour that opened at 10am so we started with some Chinese gardens.
There were many amazing trees and cool paths paved with rocks on their side. After a bit of wandering it was time to head to our next stop: Pic’s Peanut Butter World!
When we paid for our tour we were each gifted a jar of peanut butter, we could choose between creamy, chunky, and smoochy, which is about halfway between the two. Once the tour started, there were about 40 or so of us lead upstairs to an area overlooking the production floor. There were also windows into some of the automated equipment such as the discs that grind the peanuts into peanut butter.
Our guide told about the history of the company, how the founder, Pic, had bought a jar of peanut butter, put it on toast, and just hated how it was so full of sugar. He tried complaining to the company but they said people preferred it that way. Disagreeing, he remembered how his mom and grandma used to make delicious peanut butter without any sugar and started making some himself. He sold it at the Nelson Market and it became so popular he had to start getting equipment to help him automate it in his garage, including this cement mixer.
During our tour someone from the floor brought up a freshly finished jar, that was still warm from the grinding process, finished at the time we arrived. The workers all seemed so happy and waved at us from the floor. We had some free time to walk around and even make a bit of our own peanut butter powdered by bicycle. They also had screens showing how much power they used versus how much they put back into the grid from their solar panels on the roof of the factory.
At the end of the tour came the best part, we not only were able to taste the fresh jar of plain, smoochy style peanut butter, but we also tried chocolate, seeded, and a salt and pepper! The last one was like a crazy explosion of flavors, but the chocolate and seeded varieties were my favorite. It had sesame, pumpkin, and sunflower seeds just to name a few. I might have bought one if we didn’t already have 4 glass jars of peanut butter we had to somehow pack in our suitcases and get home.
About an hour down the road we stopped at an old railway tunnel which has been turned into a small loop hike called Kawatiri. It wasn’t as long as some of the biking ones we’ve walked through in Wisconsin but it was still pretty fun. Another half an hour down the road brought us to Rivers Cafe in Murchison and lunchtime! It was pretty popular spot but we managed to find a table. We had, savory pies, sandwiches, and beautifully done latte art with bars to share for dessert.
Murchison is close to the Buller River gorge, so we stopped for a photo or two.
There wasn’t a great place to stop but Mr. Wander had found a listing for a “T-rex Tree” so he was ready to snap a shot on the drive. What do you think?
It was two hours from our lunch spot until we arrived at our cabin for the evening in Punakaiki. It was a great spot, right on the Tasman Sea, you can see our red car in one of the pictures below. Mr. Wander and his dad explored up the hill to the pancake rocks and a cavern to check it out. Meanwhile his mom and I enjoyed watching the waves until the sandflies drove us inside.
The next morning after we checked out, we drove up to the top so we could all see the pancake rocks at high tide, which is one of the best times.
There were areas where the waves sloshed, what looked like a steaming tea kettle from the spray, and even a spot they called “sudden sound”. You can hear Mr. Wander’s dad in the video, I don’t think he realized how loud it would actually be!
I had actually been here a few times, the first time I remember it being so busy it was hard to get a picture without a person in it. This time since we came so early we nearly had it to ourselves!
You can hear me in this one excited when a wave pushes through the blow hole here, because it wasn’t on every wave that it happened. We continued south to Greymouth in the hopes to find a yarn or quilt shop but there wasn’t anything too interesting. Instead we went to a studio just south of town where my MIL and I purchased pounamu carved by a Māori couple. You may know it as jade, but it is a culturally important and spiritual stone to the Māori. It is protected by New Zealand law on who is allowed to collect for sale of the stone. The couple loved sharing about the stone and what it means.
Hers is a twist which means lives going apart but coming together. They suggested that Mr. Wander wear it awhile to put some of his “mana” into it, so she can feel like he is with her while we are travelling. I got one with a whale tail which represents strength, protection, and connection with the ocean. It also had a koru, or a spiral like in the picture above that looks like a fern leaf before it unfurls, representing new beginnings. I feel it works well as we now have been through all 7 continents and we look towards the next season of travel.
Glaciers and Lakes
We continued down the coast and stopped at Hokitika for a little beach walk and to see the famous driftwood sign. There were other writings in driftwood as well as some concrete couches and armchairs. Not as comfy as my pose would make it seem, ha!
We headed inland we stopped at Lake Kaniere and a visit to a waterfall. Then we continued to the Hokitika Gorge for a little walk across suspension bridges and over looking bright blue glacial waters.
Then it was time to get back in the car and drive for a few hours until Fox and Franz Josef glaciers. I actually hiked on Franz Josef when I was here the first time in 2013, but this time Mr. Wander and his dad found a one way hike called “Douglas Track”, IYKYK. We picked them up at the end and finally arrived to Mt Cook View Hotel, where we were staying. Since the west coast of the South Island is tucked between the Tasman Sea and the mountain range called the Southern Alps, it likes to trap clouds making seeing things like Mount Cook pretty rare. This was the case when we arrived, but we still visited a viewpoint anyway just in case we could see the glacier.
In the morning it was clear and we could see the mountain from the hotel! We dropped off Mr. Wander and his dad to walk around Lake Matheson. I had done this on my first trip here so I didn’t need to again, and this way his mom and I could go to the viewpoint from the day before to check it out.
We had it almost to ourselves until a big bus came so that was our cue to leave and pick up the boys. They had some amazing views with the lakes reflecting the mountains, the big draw to Lake Matheson.
We had one last visit to a beach on the Tasman Sea before we headed inland. There was a nice beach to watch the waves, a cool tower to get a look out, and a short hike on a boardwalk. Then it was time for a quick lunch at a place called The Hard Antler, where I had Chicken and Waffles! Don’t see that outside the US very often.
There were a few short stops such as the Roaring Billy Falls. This required a little hike on dirt, followed by walking across a huge field of rocks that were not easy to transit. It felt like a river bed which might be the case in the springtime. We crossed the mountain range at Haast pass. My FIL kept asking where the pass was but it is so gradual and you’re in the forest that there isn’t much of a view.
After the pass we came into Hawea where we stayed for the evening. There were lovely views of the lake as we came into the valley and we opted for pizza takeout for dinner. While waiting for the pizza we saw a few planes flying around, there was an airshow nearby the upcoming weekend and I am guessing they were practicing and having a bit of fun in the evening.
It was a full day of lakes, starting with Lake Wānaka and it’s main attraction, That Wānaka Tree. It’s a willow tree growing right out of the lake, about 30 ft from the edge of the water!
Our next lake was Pukake, which is known for good views of Mount Cook, and we were blessed with another clear and blue sky. Mr. Wander was having fun taking sneaky pictures of his dad trying to get a good shot. I also had to try a jump picture since I took a picture like it in 2013. The right picture was with Mr. Wander’s excellent photography skills so it looks like I am jumping WAY higher, despite aging 13 years.
Not much farther up the road was a more popular spot, Lake Tekapo. We started with St. John’s Observatory which has a cute little coffee shop at the top of the hill. We enjoyed pies and pastries for lunch while watching people ascend the hill that hiked from the lake level. Then we went to one of the most pictured churches in all of New Zealand, Church of the Good Shepherd. It has a two years waiting list for weddings and is amazingly beautiful in the spring with the blooming lupines. I’m sure you’ve seen a picture of this at one point, and now you know where this is!
After a full day of lakes we headed down to Omarama to check into our hotel. We tried to go to the Wrinkly Ram for wool but it was already closed, so we waited to go when it opened the next morning. My MIL and I found some good yarn made of Marino wool, which is one of the more well known sheep in NZ. We saw many on the drive across the plains just east of the Mountains.
The following morning we worked our way down to Queenstown and along Lake Wakatipu. According to Māori legend, the lake was created from the body of a giant named Matau, who was burned after he had kidnapped the daughter of a local chief. When you look at the shape from above the lake looks like a person lying on their side. After pictures with the lake from the hill in Queenstown, we continued onto Glenorchy and then to a lookout where Isengard was filmed! It had started raining today so you can see the mist over the lake in some of the pictures.
Then we took a narrow single track dirt road, but it was the road to paradise! It was a bit unnerving to see signs warning us of a river Ford ahead but as it is fall it was bone dry. We did have an SUV but it wasn’t exactly intended to be an offroad vehicle. I think the big draw here is to do a hike once you arrive to an amazing viewpoint but it was raining and no one was that interested, plus we had a drive and stops on the way back!
Our last stop for the day was nearly back to Queenstown, called Moke Lake. The road was as narrow as the one to paradise but had a bit more traffic. At least it wasn’t as steep of a dropoff here! There was a campground at the end, we just took a few pictures and then headed to Queenstown at the top of the hill to turn in for the evening.
Next Time
We left early to make sure we made it to Manapouri in time to catch our boat, and then the bus, that would take us to our accommodation for the next two nights: a boat on Doubtful Sound! Then only two more driving days brought us up to Christchurch where we caught a flight to Sydney. We had two days to visit the Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains, spy out some koalas and other Australian creatures in the zoo, and board our cruise that would take us across the Pacific to Hawaii! Ka kite anō!
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