{"id":2292,"date":"2024-04-10T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-04-10T14:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/willingtowander.com\/blog\/?p=2292"},"modified":"2026-05-14T07:58:45","modified_gmt":"2026-05-14T13:58:45","slug":"saying-farewell-to-our-favorite-flavors-of-japan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/willingtowander.com\/blog\/saying-farewell-to-our-favorite-flavors-of-japan\/","title":{"rendered":"Saying Farewell to our Favorite Flavors of Japan"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The last segment in Japan! We covered more distance by train in one day than any other of the trip just to say we made it onto the island of Kyushu. We spent some time in Hiroshima learning about the impact of the atomic bomb, visited several castles, and ended our time in Japan with an excellent cooking class where we learned to make two of our favorites, ramen and gyoza!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Hiroshima<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Kyoto to Hiroshima, plus extra excursion through the Kyushu Island<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Train Day Through Kyushu Island<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

We had reservations for an early train from Kyoto to Hiroshima from several days prior, but had since learned about a city just on the northern end of the south island that is known for their ramen, so of course we had to go. After stashing the bags in lockers, we hopped on a train and arrived in Kitakyushu just in time for the ramen place we picked to open. After figuring out the minimal English vending machine, Mr. Wander got the rich broth and I got the light broth, both with extra pork, and a draft beer. It is definitely in my top 3 ramens so far and the smoky pork being the best we had. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Delicious Ramen with smoked pork in Kokura<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After this we walked to the Kokura Castle we started with the garden which I don’t think was worth the price of admission. It was mostly just a pond. We at least got the combo ticket with the castle which according to a sign, is \u201cthe most interesting castle in Japan\u201d, and I might have to agree, with what I’ve visited so far.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

First you saw a timeline with a ton of figurines depicting different eras in the castles history. There was a theater showing reenactments (with subtitles) of battles and duels and some CGI showing the castle back in the day. Then they had Augmented Reality that I could try in traditional outfits, a real fitting room to try on outfits, a video game with archery from horseback, and fun interactive photo spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

On the 4th of five floors there was a room of photos on canvas with a caption below with a word in Japanese and some of these I found very funny. My favorites are the rubber chicken, “Orabu” meaning to shout; the kid staring at vegetables, “Sukan” which are things that you don’t like or hate; and the four soldiers, “Haburu”, to leave ones friends out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Ferris Wheel atop the station and attached mall in Kagoshima<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After this we headed back to the station because we had decided to make it a \u2018relaxing\u201d train day, and take a train to the other end of the island to Kagoshima and back, just because we could and it was “free” with our rail pass. We mostly walked out of the station to take a quick glance and upon turning around, we saw a ferris wheel on top of the station! We snapped a quick picture, headed back inside to get snacks, and boarded the train headed back for Hiroshima.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Second ramen of the day<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We checked into our hotel and then walked a few blocks away to find some ramen…and yes we had ramen for lunch too! It was a more modern looking place, but one where you could get unlimited rice to help you finish all the broth in the bowl, yum! It was a more modern funky vibe, the music reminded me of high school, back in the early 2000s and had fun looking comics at the tables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Comic at ramen restaurant in Hiroshima<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Burning for World Peace<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

We had a full day to explore Hiroshima, and started with the gardens and castle. The gardens were actually cheaper than the tiny one at Kokura castle, and was at least ten times as large. They had several really fun bridges you could cross and the islands in the main pond were shaped as turtles or cranes. They also had a small bamboo forest and herb garden hiding in the back. There were a ton of Koi in the pond as well, most staying close to where the water fall or a smaller stream was entering the main body of water. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

At one end of the garden there was a display of bonsai trees, most were about 50 years old but a few were between 80 and 100! I didn’t realize there were so many different varieties.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
One of several bonsai trees on display at Hiroshima Gardens<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We headed over to the main castle which was nice, mostly history of where the castle came from and a few interactive spots but the best was the top floor had a walkway outside you could get views from every direction, including the A-bomb dome (more on that in a minute). The castle itself had collapsed due to the force of the bomb explosion but it was not close enough to burn, it was about 1 km from the epicenter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
View from top of Hiroshima Castle towards A-Dome<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After leaving the castle we walked to the dome and Peace Memorial park, finding a few tents and food trucks selling food along the way, so we decided to get some lunch. We got some gyoza and a pork & rice bowl that we split and of course a candied apple, although this one was without extra flavors. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
A-dome, preserved to maintain condition just after atomic bomb dropped overhead on August 6, 1945<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We made it to the park got pictures of what is now known as the A-bomb dome, but originally it was a government building, built in about 1915. Hiroshima was the location for the first ever nuclear bomb dropped in war on August 6th 1945, at the end of World War II. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
A-Bomb dome with a memorial, the stone translates to “Comfort the Soul”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The bomb exploded almost directly above this building, and so the vertical walls were able to withstand the blast, as well as the supports for the dome on top of the building. One of the more famous images of Hiroshima is the one of this building where only a few had any walls standing within about 1km radius. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Image of a-bomb dome and Hiroshima a few months after the atomic bomb was dropped<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nearby were a few fountains and the children\u2019s peace memorial, built in memory of a girl who had died of leukemia 10 years after the bomb at age 12 and in honor of the thousands of other children who were killed as a result of the a-bomb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Childrens memorial in Hiroshima<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Several glass structures surrounding the sculpture are filled with millions of paper cranes in elaborate mosaics and with words of hope for peace in the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
One of many mosaics made with paper cranes at children’s memorial<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Across the street is the peace flame, burning since 1964 and will continue to burn until there are no longer any nuclear warheads present on the earth. At the other end of a pool is a cenotaph memorial for the victims of the A-bomb, in a perfect line with the flame and the A-bomb dome, and lined up behind where we took this picture is the museum. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Victim cenotaph, peace flame, and a-bomb dome<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Inside the museum you learned about many stories of survivors or those who were victims of the A-bomb, and the absolute horror that victims and survivors experienced over the hours, days, and decades after the bomb was dropped.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Mural of city after bomb was dropped inside museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After the initial explosion, anyone far enough away to have survived the blast or collapse of buildings on top of them were burned 3rd degree or beyond from the intense heat created by the atomic reaction. This heat caused many of the buildings to catch fire and a huge firestorm swept through the city. Only those that made it to the river survived this third wave of danger. The next danger was the lingering radiation, killing those who were nearby within a day or two, depending on exposure. Some who had come into the city for rescue and relief efforts were exposed because the topsoil was affected. This was a much less intensive dose and may not have had an affect for many years, often leading to cancer even decades later. Radioactive water, known as \u201cblack rain\u201d fell over a very wide area, with people tens and hundreds of kilometers away remembering the rain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Memorial tower to Mobilized Students<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The bomb in Hiroshima is estimated to have killed 140,000 people both in the immediate effects and in the long term dangers from radiation exposure. The second bomb, dropped over Nagasaki just 2 days after, is estimated to have killed about 70,000. There was an entire exhibit dedicated to the history of the development of this first bomb and the cold war and nuclear developments since. While more countries than ever before have developed nuclear programs, the positive thought is that there are considerably fewer weapons that exist throughout the world than at its height in the cold war. I can only hope that the number continues to decrease, and nuclear power is only used for things like electricity, and that someday the peace flame in Hiroshima can finally be extinguished.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

A Most Notible Torii Gate<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

That afternoon we booked a ferry to the island of Isukushima. There was a festival for the environment which had live shows and at the end of the night, the movie \u201cthe Lorax\u201d played. The video, lights, and speakers were powered by people (mostly kids) pedaling bikes! Such a creative idea!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Our ferry to Isukushima<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As we walked into the town we noticed so many deer either sitting under a tree, or sometimes following people that had food.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
“Excuse me, may I have some of your food” – the deer following this poor woman<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We walked through a street full of shops and restaurant for a snacky dinner, finding many items shaped like maple leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Our favorites were the leaf shaped pies filled with fruit or custard, so tasty! Then we walked out to see probably one of the most picturesque Torii gates. You’ve likely seen it in tourism photos for Japan, although I have never seen it at such low tide! We walked around as near to the base as we could get and then went up on the wall to get a good seat for the sunset.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

After the sunset we walked up to one of the temples with a pagoda at the top of a smaller hill but most places were closed by the time we had arrived.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Pagoda near Isukushima Shrine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We got beef and curry cheese croquettes from one stall and some sort of flat bread filled with cheese from a brazilian stand near the festival, but I lumped the pictures with the food gallery above. Then we boarded the ferry and headed back to our hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

A Series of Quick Stops<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We had decided to add Kurashiki because we had heard it was a unique place in Japan to visit for a day, and then had a plan to bike through the Setonaikai National Park from Onomichi to Imabari. It is a series of islands with ferries or bridges that are all cycle-friendly connecting between Japan’s Main island of Honshu to Shikoku. Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate and it was rainy, windy, and cold, we felt it was better (and safer) in warmer weather. Oh well we’ll just have to go back, now!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Train Journey to Kurashiki from Hiroshima<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Kurashiki, the Venice of Japan<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

After a short train from Hiroshima, we arrived too early to check in but we could store our bags and get our afternoon tea we purchased with the room. It was lovely, 3 levels of tasty treats from savory soup to tiramisu jelly parfait and however much tea or coffee you wanted. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Afternoon Tea at our hotel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It was extremely reasonable, I think we paid about $4 per person to add it to our room. Fueled up, we walked to the Busan historical district. First we found this nice little garden that was free to explore and even had a few water features and bridges. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Random tiny garden<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We found this one part called Denim Alley, as most of the denim or jeans made in Japan come from this area. I had to try some \u201cdenim ice cream\u201d, aka blueberry, just for fun. I wasn\u2019t quite hungry enough for the denim pork bun, however. It was fun to see all the different ways denim was used while walking through the stores, even some benches had denim either printed or upholstered over them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We went towards the Kurashiki Ivy Sqare hotel that was recommended from the online itinerary we had been loosely following and found a nice square with some turtles in a pond, a small stage, and a restaurant that was unfortunately closed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We wandered up a hill towards the Kanryuji Temple to look around. In our wanderings we found some fun things along the way including several dogs in baby carriers, the gondolas floating through the canal, and several fun manhole covers. Most cities in Japan have interesting designs but these were someone of the most colorful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Heading back through the older streets we decided to find a few snacks along the way and tried this award winning croquette and cheese dog. The croquette did have a nice flavor, probably the most interesting spices we’ve had in a croquette thus far, but the cheese dog was confusing. Mr. Wander was about halfway through before he even found the hot dog part, most of it was just cheese! There were a few options for toppings we got the plain powdered sugar which reminded me a bit of a honey corn dog, so pretty tasty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Award winning Croquette and cheesy dog<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We finally were able to get into our hotel room and I promptly took a much-needed nap until dinner. On a mission to find okonomiyaki, we were met with most restaurants that were closed, maybe for off season. I happened to see this one online with good reviews but we didn’t even realize it was mainly an okonomiyaki until we went inside!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
They offered to take our picture before we dug into our okonomiyaki, Hiroshima style<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It was empty but it would have only held about 12 people, 6 of them at the grill top which is where we got to sit, front row seats like a teppanyaki. This is traditional for okonomiyaki because you actually eat it from the cooktop edge, using a spatula they give you to cut it, scoop and eat it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Their English menu had a how-to eat on the back, plus the layers identified<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What it is: Layers of cabbage, bean sprouts, green onions & seaweed, soba noodles (or udon, your choice), meat (we did pork but seafood is very common), egg, a pastry layer that reminded me of a crepe, and the signature sauce. You could put more sauce, hot sauce or mayo on top as you eat it, my favorite was mayo but Mr. Wander alternated between the other two.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Our chef for the evening, it was fun washing him and his wife cook (and sometimes argue) in the kitchen, they were so sweet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There are two main styles of this dish, the Hiroshima style, which is what we ate this time with distinct layers, and Osaka, which is more mixed together like a stir fry. We didn’t manage to find this in Osaka to compare but I really enjoyed the Hiroshima version!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Onomichi<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Train from Kurashiki to ONomichi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The next day we headed for Onomichi, meant to be an easy day as we rest up for a bike adventure we had planned. We had took it easy in the morning since we knew we couldn\u2019t check in until 2pm so we had a slow easy breakfast at family mart on the way to the station. Once in Onomichi we walked to a local chain called Curry Coco. You could choose your type of curry, spice level, sweetness, amount of rice by 50g increments (the standard 300g was a little too much) and your toppings. There were plenty of fried options like shrimp, cheesy crab croquette, pork cutlet, chicken cutlet, and a variety of seafood. I had the crab and pork and Mr. Wander had chicken and pork. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Curry Coco Lunch in Onomichi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We still had nearly an hour so we walked to the seaside and sat on a bench in this little park with a view of an active shipyard. We were able to watch this large ship make a 180 off their anchor and dock right by where we were sitting. It was unexpected entertainment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n