After a few travel days we finally arrive in Bolivia. Our tour starts in La Paz, where we met our tour guide and the rest of the group. The itinerary takes us to Sucre next, where we spent several days joining tours with the group and getting a little break from the elevation!
How to Get to Bolivia
Upon leaving Punta Arenas, we had two flights to get ourselves into Lima, Peru, where we stayed the night before flying to La Paz via Cusco. Only a few airports in South America fly into La Paz, or much of Bolivia, and often the flights are in the middle of the night, despite only lasting a few hours. One downside to planning in smaller chunks is that we didn’t have the most efficient flight plan, we should have flown from Santiago into Cusco and skipped Lima, but you live and you learn.
Bolivia has more requirements for us visiting than we had experienced in any other country so far. Those we needed eVISAs for last year were much less complicated since we had submitted everything in advance, and they didn’t need as much information. Here we needed our itinerary for the entire stay, the name of our hotel and proof of reservation, copies of our passports, proof of return travel out of Bolivia, and a copy of our bank statement. Most just require proof of return travel and half the time they don’t even ask for it. We also had to fill out a document saying how much cash we had (mostly that it was less than $10,000 USD) and we had to pay the visa fee of $160 per person. The nice thing is, this lasts for 10 years, or until you get a new passport so it should be easier once we return.
It really makes you appreciate how good we have it with our passport being able to land in so many countries without having to pay for a visa or share so much information.
La Paz
I am glad we planned an extra day in La Paz before the tour started because the altitude hit me pretty hard. We left southern Chile that was pretty much at sea level and only had a brief experience in Cusco along the way that got us above 5000ft. La Paz however, is at 12,000ft (3650m) which is pretty brutal to experience all at once.
Our first night we ended up meeting a few women in the stairwell from the UK that are also part of our tour, so we decide to go to dinner together and get some pizza across the street. It was fun getting to know each other and learn about travels and talk about the upcoming trip. We also learned that the flight we took from Cusco actually came from Bogota, Columbia, and they were on it. Since they had just come straight from the UK they were very ready for some sleep.
We decided not to push it and took the elevator up and then promptly crawled into bed. The next morning we climbed the stairs to breakfast I was in pretty rough shape, I probably should have used the inhaler before that particular physical activity but I let Mr. Wander get his breakfast first while I caught my breath. Most of that day we relaxed in the room, and I managed to get a few naps in. We did wander out to find an ATM and picked up some snacks from a minimart down the street. One of the more interesting things we found was coca-cola flavored oreos, so we had to try! They were oddly addicting!
That evening we had the first meetup with the full tour group and our CEO (chief experience officer) that would be escorting us around the country. He gave us a run down of the tour and we all introduced ourselves. The group is a mix from Canada, USA, UK, and Germany, and our guide is from Peru. We took some pictures from the rooftop looking out onto the city tucked into the different arms of the mountain.
Next we all venture out for dinner, walking past some of the Witch’s market. Unfortunately it requires several stairs but thanks to my rest earlier I accomplish these much better than those in the hotel that morning.
We sat in two tables which was nice to get to know a smaller group at once, and other than the very slow service, enjoy a nice evening swapping travel stories and getting acquainted.
I end up trying an Andean Quesadilla, which meant it was made with llama meat. Not sure I could tell the difference between beef, but it was spiced very well and had a nice flavor. Mr. Wander tried a local dish called Pique Macho but it was so much food, especially potatoes but also had sausage and beef. It was a bit more sour but still tasted really good. We all turned in as soon as we could because the next morning we had to get up VERY early. Good thing we were still somewhat on Chilean time and had been waking up early the last few days for our flights.
Sucre
We had two flights that day, the first to Cochabamba at 5:30am required us to be up a little after 3 for our transport to the airport. The second was delayed so we didn’t take off until 9am, but one of the cafes gave us a sandwich or donut, and a beverage due to the inconvenience.
We landed outside of Sucre and it was over a half hour into the city. Once we were dropped off it was late enough we could get right into our room. Then we met up with a local guide who shared with us the options for tours we could do in our 3 days in Sucre. We all sign up for the tour the following day and next she gave us a short tour around the main square pointing out restaurants, ice cream and chocolate shops, museums, ATMs, laundry, and pharmacies.
Finally it was time to get lunch, which we were all very much needing after the early wake up, and just having snacks from our hotel and the airline for the delay in Cochabamba. I opted for the quinoa burger and Mr. Wander had something similar to cheese empanadas, and we both tried the local beer. The burger while it didn’t hold together, tasted so delicious, and had plenty of lettuce, pickles and avocados for extra flavor.
While we were feeling better since Sucre was lower than La Paz, we were both pretty tired so we decided to rest in the hotel for awhile. That evening our CEO reserved some tables for us at the rooftop bar and we had some amazing cocktails and eventually split some pizzas.
The sunset was blocked a bit by some storm systems coming over the mountains but amazingly, we never felt a raindrop.
Tarabuco Festival
The next morning after breakfast, we were waiting in the lobby for our tour and several kids ran by dragging homemade cars by a string they made from recycled materials. They all had numbers on their shirt like it was a race. The one guide told us that they have a different activity every Sunday for kids around the city square.
Soon it was time we all boarded a bus to the nearby town of Tarabuco. This was the last day of their festival that aligned with the week of Mardi Gras. It is not likely as big as those in Brazil, but was extra special as Bolivia is celebrating 200 years since independence from Spain, and we were able to attend the last day of the Festival.
After the bus parked the guide took us through the town and along some of the streets full of market vendors. There were shoes, clothes, electronics, cables, household goods, fried or bbq meat in some spots, and of course, traditional blankets.
The guide said most children are carried with these blankets to this day, which we saw plenty around both Bolivia and Peru. He told a story about hiking with some tourists that were really struggling with the elevation and just a small backpack. They ended up getting passed by a woman carrying her baby on the front and an OVEN on the back with these blankets saying “you can do it, almost there!” and smiling.
Most of these vendors are only here for the festival, but in one area they had the normal Sunday market, full of fruit, meat, vegetable, and of course, potato vendors. He told us that during these markets the produce that is leftover is often traded with other vendors to get stuff they needed.
Next we wandered through the streets until we came to our restaurant.
It was a bit unassuming from the outside, just a mural painted around the doorway. Once we entered, however, it had a cute little courtyard with trellised flowers over one table, and an upstairs with several other tables. Ours was not ready yet but they had a mini art gallery on site, painted by one of the family members. The theme of the paintings were the bachelor and bachelorette parties across from each other, as both the brdie and groom look nervous with family and friends trying to help them out. The other portraits along the side walls were other wedding guests. In the room were a few hats we tried on, mine sat a bit precariously since I had a bun on top of my head!
We started with an appetizer that was like a ceviche but without fish and had a mayo type sauce. Next was a traditional dish, especially on Sundays in Bolivia called Soupa de Mani, or Peanut soup. Despite what you might think, it does not taste like peanuts or even look like it has peanut butter in it.
The peanuts are used fresh instead of roasted and are used almost like a thickener rather than flavoring agent. There are french fries, beef, one person even had a bone with marrow in it. For extra spice and flavor you could add a special salsa called llajwa made with tomatoes and Locoto chili peppers. It wasn’t overly spicy but I liked the original soup flavor the best.
We could choose our main dish, and both Mr. Wander and I opted for the traditional Mondongo, which is a sort of barbeque pork served with potatoes and side dish of corn. The sauce was very flavorful but the corn sauce was pretty bland, but wasn’t too bad if you mixed them together. For dessert was some sort of vibrant pink strawberry flavored gelatin.
Finally it was time to head to the main festivities. Along the way several groups were singing and doing dances in the streets, mostl ook like they were in their teens and they had various backup music they danced and sang to. It was getting much busier as we made it to the main field, full of vendors and in the distance they had a ferris wheel and other rides I would see at a county fair.
After making our way to the center we could watch a group in traditional dress dancing, singing, and playing flutes and drums. On their feet they had wooden platform sandals with metal discs that rattle as they stomp. During the war of independence these shoes helped them to appear taller and the discs made it seem like there were more than they actually were for more intimidation to the Spanish.
Several groups were off to the side practicing for their turn in front of the audience. Each surrounding community has a group that came here to compete, especially in this special 200th Anniversary year of their independence.
We stayed for a few groups, and watched them all get cups of a yellow liquid out of a bucket on the ground. Nearby I saw a big truck that in the back were men doling out more buckets of the liquid for the dancers. Our guide told us it helped reduce a bit of inhibitions to help the dancers, a bit of liquid courage. I am not sure what all was in it besides corn (he did call it a chicha) but he did get us a glass that we all got to taste and it was very strong yet tasty. It reminded me of a jungle juice so there must have been fruit juice in there as well.
Finally we worked our way back to the main square where we had some time to do a little shopping. I tried looking for the thread I saw before but it was already packed up or I went down the wrong street so we just went o the square to wait for others. Then it was time to head back to the bus and head back to Sucre.
That evening a smaller group went back to the rooftop to try and catch a sunset, but the clouds had other plans! We enjoyed chatting and splitting a few pizzas before it was time for bed.
Cooking Class
One of our fellow travelers I’ll refer to as D, signed up with me for a traditional Bolivian cooking class. Mr. Wander let me have a “girls day” so he did his own walking tour in the morning, but I’ll get to that later.
We were picked up right around the time kids were getting to school, most of which were right around the square. As we drove passed the square there were zebras in the crossings, dancing and chatting with the kids and helping make sure they were safe when they crossed the street.
Our guides were a brother and sister that had started this company together. They gave us each our shopping list and recipe and once we arrived at the El Marro Mercado they went through the list and we crossed off a few things they had at their home already. They also told us about how much to buy of each thing in Bolivianos, and gave us options we could pick for the fruit in the salad and mojitos.
Next it was time to practice my spanish! The sister helped us find the right areas of the market while the brother went to buy some of the other necessities. We started with the vegetables and herbs and the caseritas were all very kind to my blunders of spanish, although our guide did see that we were charged more because we were foreigners in some booths. We worked our way to the fruits and found some delicious grapes they let us try before we bought them, as well as a cantelope that was perfectly ripe.
It took us longer to find the Tumbo, our fruit of choice for the mojitos as it is described as similar to a passionfruit but with a more sour flavor.
We went through the list getting there rest of the fruits, vegetables and a few spices. She stopped and talked about some of the potatoes, my favorite were these cute little pink ones. Bolivia has about 800 kinds of potatoes, which is why we had already been seeing them at most meals.
Finally it was time to get the meat, but in the main meat area the chicken was frozen and she said we didn’t have time to be able to cook it if it was still a bit frozen. We found our chicken in a side stall near where we parked that was much fresher. We asked for it to be without the head or innards “sin menudencias” and she weighed it for us. Next the brother popped back and he had some cooked small potatoes with salt and oil or butter on them, and when he left she let us try one. Since he wasn’t back right away she took us to that booth to buy another and she taught me what to say after we buy the potatoes. I forget what the Spanish is now, but it is essentially “one more please” and she snuck a few more potatoes in our bag. Its sort of a tradition or extra compliment to the caserita.
Finally we hopped back in the car and made it to their kitchen area, where they live above. We washed our hands and got kitted up with aprons, towels, and hairnets. They got us started right away chopping tomatoes, pineapple, onions and herbs that would be used to stuff the chicken. Once it was all ready, they prepped a paper bag you get when you buy flour by cutting it into big sheet then sepearting the layers. The food safe layer was set on our prep table and we both got to work buttering a big area. Then she brought the chicken and I got the inside and D got the outside. The sister chef poured mustard on our hands and we set about covering the entire chicken, inside and out, with mustard. Next came the spices, and finally it was time to stuff. It was such a colorful stuffing with the green bell peppers, red tomatoes, and yellow pineapples.
She tied the legs together with twine, and then the chicken was wrapped in the paper it was set on to a nice package, then the thicker outer paper from that same flour bag was used and the whole thing was wrapped with twine.
We washed our hands and next was time to play with mud. They showed us the oven and sat us at a little table where we had to mix the mud in with water to get the right consistancy. We put the mud in an even layer on this metal pan, and then the chickn was brought to set on top. We covered the entire chicken with at least 1 inch of mud into a nice round shape. She told D to make a nose, and me to make a bunny tail, and she worked on a few ears. Then she washed a few rocks that were in the mud to use as eyes and pretty soon our chicken looked like a pig!
It went into the mouth of the oven. Quite literally a mouth as the top has a nose, eyes and ears. They had a burning log in there but to cook it faster they did use a propane torch. Usually this method you could cook for 4-5 hours but that is a long time for a cooking class.
After cleaning off the mud we got to try some of the fruits and learned about Singani, which is a Bolivian version of Pisco, essentially a distilled wine. This first cocktail was called a chufly and they served it in a coconut shell and we learned one way to cheers in Bolivia. You lift your glass and say “Arriba”, lower it “Abajo”, bring to a cheers in the middle “al centro” and then drink “a’dentro”. Each word describes what you do with the drink, bringing it up, down, to the middle, and then to your inside.
Next we of course made the mojitos, but using the Singani instead of rum. We could also choose 2 fruits to muddle, D and I both chose Tumbo and passionfruit. We relaxed for awhile, chatting about our travels, and different customs of Bolivia as well as munching on those potatoes. The sister chef had a strong “taste while you work” methodology that I definitely got behind.
Our next task was making that Llajwa salsa we had with the peanut soup the day before. This is done in a traditional way using a large stone table and curved stone pestle called Batan to crush the tomatoes and chili peppers. It was a good 10 minutes of rocking to grind the seeds and skin until it was a homogenous mixture. D did a slightly different version that goes excellent with those potatoes we had been snacking on. She started the same with the tomatoes and chilis, but about halfway in they added an herb called huacataya that turned it green and completely changed the flavor.
We shared a course of peanut soup with our fresh llawja and they were so thankful that we made the salsas, I think it’s a treat since it takes so much work! We also had the herbed salsa on the potatoes that really hit the spot.
While the brother chef went to pick up his son from school, the rest of us went to work on the two salads we’d have on the side, a melon salad with goat cheese and a quinoa salad with mango. However, watermelon and mango wasn’t available in the market so we used the muskmelon and grapes with pineapple instead.
When he returned, he tasted the salads and we added a bit of herbs here, some salt there, and then it was finally time to take out the chicken! They gave D a hammer and thermal glove and she went to work breaking the mud and pulling off chunks. When we got down to the paper they got out the scissors to cut the twine and cut away the layers of the paper they peeled back. Suddenly, the chicken appeared, and it smelled so good! It was sitting in its juices mixed with that of the filling and they transfered it to the dish, and we could finally eat.
Everything was so delicious, I never would have thought about stuffing a chicken with pineapple but it was so delicious, especially since the mud trapped every bit of steam and juice. It was especially nice to eat the filling with the chicken. The salads were very delicious, but the muskmelon one seemed to be everyone’s favorite as it was so fresh and perfectly ripe. After we had our fill we piled back in the car and took us back to our hotel!
Mr. Wander’s Wanderings
When we got back I learned all about Mr. Wander’s travels. He headed upto the lookout, where they had a central fountain surrounded by churches and a school. We ended up walking up here after my cooking class so I’ll share those pictures later
Next he headed over to the cemetery, which was beautiful with trees, flowers, statutes and several mausoleums.
Next he headed to their own version of a tiny eiffel tower in one of the town squares. After all that walking he found a cafe in a bell tower, where you order on the first level, then walk up a few flights to find tables, sometimes under the bells. He enjoyed the view from his table near the window overlooking the little courtyard
After his lunch he headed back to the hotel to wait for me to return.
Wandering Across Rooftops
Once we were back from our class, we refreshed a little bit and refilled our water, then D joined Ryan and I with a walk to the rooftop. We found our friends from Edmonton in the lobby so they decided to explore with us as well.
We walked up to the lookout with Mr. Wander as our guide. The view from here was spectacular, and there were a bunch of kids playing in the square near us. A few came up saying hi to practice their English, they were so cute. We worked our way down hill trying to get onto a rooftop to see views of the city. We headed to the Basilica of our Lady of Guadalupe and only had to wait a little bit for the tour.
We climbed very steep stairs up a bit of a spiral to the bell tower to chat a bit and then we got to go out onto the top. It was interesting that we could walk on some parts of these rooftops where they were reinforced, such as down the middle of the rounded are in the last picture. In one tower with windows we could see into a chandelier below.
That night we decided to just go back to our rooftop standby and tried some new cocktails that were so delicious!
Next Time
We leave for Potosi, just visiting one night where we got to go into a working silver mine. Next we headed to Uyuni, before we loaded into 4×4 vehicles for a 3 day tour of the desert and what I had been looking forward to, the salt flats! Mr. Wander got good use of his new fancy camera, catching flamingos and viscachas as well as several antics of our fellow travelers. Until next time, Ciao!
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