Our Antarctic Expedition started out amazing, and we could only hope that we didn’t peak too soon. The spectacular views kept coming and while we did have one weather cancellation, it was like a fun snow day in the middle of the week!
To give an idea of where we were, Mr. Wander made me a map with the GPS coordinates of where we were each day. The farthest south we went was on Day 9 at Winter Island. Most days we were landing on islands, but our last full day we landed on the main continent!
Day 6: Spert Island and D’Hainaut Island, Mikkelsen Harbour
Most of the crew seemed excited for this next spot, Spert Island. They said it requires good weather to explore, which doesn’t always happen.
The fun part is getting to do zodiac tours all through towering icebergs and cliffs. We had to be careful with this one iceberg that it wouldn’t flip as we went past.
We even went through this cool archway!
There were several channels, which made it fun because we only saw one other zodiac the entire time.
It was such a bright pretty day that it really highlighted the blue in some of these icebergs. One of my favorite icebergs was this one with stripes of blue glacial ice, between layers of less dense ice.
Everywhere we turned there were cool icebergs or caves. I can see why the crew likes it so much.
Some cute seals were posing for us as we meandered through the maze of rocks and icebergs back towards the ship.
While the ship moved to our afternoon landing location, they had a special event out by the pool called “Caviar on Ice”. They served up little plates with a sort of cracker, some aioli, and caviar. It was a good combo, not sure I want to try caviar on its own. They also offered champagne, mulled wine, and shots of whatever vodka was your favorite.
As we enjoyed lunch the ship arrived to Mikkelsen Harbor. You could definitely smell it once we stepped outside thanks to this colony of Gentoo penguins!
Our Zodiacs landed next to a bunch of whale bones, a reminder of the darker days of the whaling industry. We made our way up the hill by a marker with the Chilean flag. Once on the top of the hill we could see the penguins sitting on one of two rocky peaks and spread across the rocky beach below. We caught a few Penguins sliding down rocks on their way to the beach.
It was cute watching some of the babies, they were very vocal. Penguins have individual songs to recognize each other when they come back from fishing. Also below on the beach were a couple of Elephant seals and a Weddell seal relaxing in the sunshine.
The whales we had watched earlier from the ship decided to make an appearance. It was fun getting to watch whales, seals and penguins all in one spot!
Those adult penguins that do not have chicks had already begun their molting. Because their feathers need to be waterproof, all their feathers must molt at one time while they remain on land. The penguins will fatten themselves up so they have enough sustenance to survive about three weeks. Usually these penguins don’t move around much to conserve their energy. They mostly sit there and wait, and they looked pretty annoyed most of the time. I suppose they were both hungry and restless, which is never a great combination for me to have a good mood, as Mr. Wander will attest.
The adults that have chicks molt a bit later in the season. My guess is they don’t have an opportunity to fatten themselves up until the chicks are big enough to fend for themselves. Their bodies may just start to molt once they reach a certain level of blubber.
Due to the presence of the penguin colony, we could not kneel or put anything on the ground because they would need to be disinfected. This is mostly to prevent spread of avian flu between colonies. We used the rocks to help clean off the bulk of it, then some of the expedition crew brushed off our boots so most never even made it onto the zodiacs. Back on board we used hot water, more brushes and a disinfectant before putting them away.
That afternoon we enjoyed another hot tub, watching the beautiful ice float by. In the evening I opted for lamb and a deliciously presented dessert. We followed it up watching the sunset in one of the lounges with cocktails.
Day 7: Melchior Islands
We had so far been blessed with beautiful weather, so to make sure we stayed humble, mother nature threw us a snow day! The original plan for the day was for a morning landing at Petermann Island and an afternoon Zodiac cruise at Pleneau Bay. We were told in the morning the weather was not conducive to a landing and so they instead headed for more sheltered waters. On our way there big thick flakes were falling prompting some of the expedition crew to have a little snow time fun.
We named him Vinny as he was aboard the Venture. They had to remove the eyes, nose, mouth, and arms before the snow melted to ensure we wouldn’t pollute the ocean.
That afternoon the snow had melted and we arrived at our zodiac destination at the Melchior Base on Gamma Island. We had several Antarctic Fur Seals welcome us to the area!
There were some really spectacular icebergs as we motored around the bay, some were so blue! Toward the end of our journey we went into a protected bay area and found Wilson’s Storm Petrols, these tiny little birds that eat krill. They look like they’re dancing on the water as they try to find their prey, some diving under water, others appearing to walk on its surface.
It was very wavy, Mr. Wander and I were in front of the zodiac and lets just say I didn’t need the chiropractor after that ride! Makes me appreciate that the captain and expedition leader found us a more secluded spot.
That evening as part of the briefing, one of the expedition crew did a short presentation all about the history of snowpeople. I enjoyed that the crew incorporated new presentations based on things we saw that day.
That evening’s dinner was Indian themed and I enjoyed a fairly spicy curry.
Afterwards we had fun in the constellation lounge, which became our favorite evening hangou. It was so quiet and they had some really delicious cocktails, including Manhattans and some zero proof options! The view from the 9th floor offered great opportunities to watch for unique icebergs or whales. As you can see both Mr. Wander and Mr. Penguin in their Photography power stance getting a great shot with the sunset.
Day 8: Port Lockroy and Damoy Point
The day started with a zodiac cruise around Port Lockroy, also known as the Penguin Post Office. It was built in 1944 by the British as part of operation Tabarin, part of secret Allied surveillance in World War II. Ships used to be able to land here but since Covid it has stopped.
Surrounding the buildings is a Gentoo penguin colony. Hundreds of penguins were sitting on the rocks, almost acting as guards for the outpost. I think my favorite was the the mountains in the background!
That afternoon we had a landing with a chance to see inside a hut at Damoy Point. It was originally used as a transit station for researchers headed to Rothera Base.
A few penguins used the hut as extra shelter for themselves and their chicks!
After traversing up the hill we watched a few groups of penguins making their way along their little highways, while a Weddell seal relaxed off to the side. The snow here is pink not due to Guano, but because of an algae that has experienced too much sun. According to one of the expedition crew, it can sometimes smell like watermelon sometimes, but we couldn’t smell it.
That evening we opted for a sushi dinner in one lounge on the 9th floor. Then we moved to the special event at the other lounge that was full of desserts!
They had the normal cocktail list, but also glühwein, some delicious chocolatey martini, and even fired up some banana fosters for dessert.
As the sun was setting, the ship took us close to Lemaire Channel. Normally they go through but it was blocked with ice. It was still absolutely stunning, I loved the contrast of the dark mountains and dustings of snow. We took so many photos, and even moved down to the bow to get a different angle. Absolutely one of my favorite views of the whole cruise.
Day 9: Petermann Island and Winter Island
We had a morning landing on Petermann island on a bright blue sunny day. There were a few spots you could visit but we decided to just go up the hill to watch the penguins and the view. Several penguins crossed the snow and one wanted to follow me!
There are both Gentoo and Adelie penguins on this island. The Gentoo is the one with the orange bill and the white patch on its head. The Adelie Penguins have only white circles around the eyes.
I enjoyed watching the penguins run and hop, but was drawn to the spectacular view of the mountains across the bay. Every so often we’d hear the thunder of snow releasing but it seemed to always be on the other side.
At the beginning of the cruise we all said what we were hoping to find in Antarctica, and so far we had ticked all the boxes save one. Mr. Wander hoped to see penguins jump in the water as a group. However, they don’t just all jump in, usually one goes first to make sure there isn’t predators around, and then the rest go once it’s safe. Just as I climbed into a zodiac to get back to the ship, this was occurring near the landing site!
I also enjoyed this picture he got of a posse of penguins making their way down tot he water. This could be their album cover!
Back on the ship we watched as a few zodiacs from later landings were gifted with a humpback whale slapping his pectoral fins, as well as several porpoising penguins.
We enjoyed a bit of lunch and viewing gorgeous icebergs as the boat moved to Winter Island where the Vernadsky research base is located, and our Zodiac tour.
It is the only Ukrainian research base on the continent and it allows Ukraine to be a part of the Treaty committee. Every country participating must have a research base but Ukraine didn’t have the funds to build their own. The base was originally built by the British but as they had plenty and were no longer in need of this station they decided to give it to Ukraine for a symbolic 1 GBP cost.
The research done here is mostly meteorology, Seismology, ozone, climate science and atmospheric. Before it was taken over by Ukraine in 1996, it was the site that discovered the hole in the ozone. Thanks to their work and the rest of the world, CFCs were banned and the hole has been shrinking, giving us all a bit more protection from skin cancer among other dangers.
Most of the ship enjoyed a zodiac cruise around the icebergs in the area, however we had signed up for a kayak excursion and this was what I was really excited for. We were originally scheduled for the first day but it was canceled due to weather conditions so we were moved to the next available slot. We really lucked out and got the calmest and coolest day!
They already had the kayaks tied off in the spot they wanted to start but first we had to get all suited up in a dry suit and special life jacket.
Then the zodiac took us and our paddles out to the kayaks that were tied in a string. We went directly from the zodiac to the 2 person kayaks while they held them close to us and gradually disconnected each boat as we navigated out into the water.
Once everyone was in kayaks, we followed our leader around some of the shore and a few larger icebergs, giving them a wide berth.
The icebergs were pretty and blue, and in a really nice view of the mountains the kayak leader had us just sit and be in the moment. Experiencing the sights, the sounds, the feel of the breeze and of the gentle waves. I really loved that, although we did have the 8 year old in our group and it was a little harder to get her to quiet down at first.
Soon we wandered closer to the smaller icebergs and were gifted with crabeater seals. Their name is derived from the German word for general crustaceans, which includes krill, but they don’t actually eat crabs. They are a true seal, meaning they cannot use their fins to move on land, and instead must Galumph. It’s sort of like doing the worm with no arms.
Not long after we were gifted with a leopard seal relaxing on the iceberg. These are the only seals known to have attacked humans, as they can be aggressive. However, there are also cases of them bringing fish or penguins to feed a human, thinking we’re a skinny seal that doesn’t know how to feed ourselves.
Our kayak leaders sent word to the zodiacs and soon we were joined by a few of the others trying to get a glimpse of this elusive seal.
As we meandered closer to the research base, our kayaking excursion was at an end. They took us closer to the station and our driver told us about when he visited that station in the past. This is another spot that one is able to send postcards or buy a $3 shot of a Ukrainian vodka.
While we were in our room awaiting dinner that evening, Mr. Wander looked out the veranda and saw a seal laying on an iceberg just outside! He got several great pictures but this first one is my favorite, it looks like the leopard seal had just heard a great joke.
As the ship continued we also saw a humpback whale and several penguins hanging out on an iceberg.
Day 10: Portal Point
Sadly, our last day in Antarctica was already here. It was a windy and snowy morning but still decent enough for us to make one last landing, and this time we’d land directly on the continent! Up until now we had just been on islands, but had viewed the continent several times.
This was also a penguin-free landing, meaning we were less restricted and could kneel or even play in the snow! Once we climbed the steep hill we worked our way around the perimeter. Mrs. Penguin and I made a snow penguin with the slushy snow. It was pretty tiny and I’m sure it was accidentally kicked over by someone else before long.
There were several snowball missles launched, and we even joined a fight with a few of the expedition crew. Finally we got in line to take a picture with an antarctic flag. The expedition crew member prompted us to do several poses, including pretending to be explorers.
Meanwhile, back across where we had the mini snowball fight, we heard random cheers. Apparently, some people decided to use the walking sticks as a bat and they managed to hit a few home runs with snowballs.
While we haven’t talked too much about South America or Oceania on here yet, we did have to take an obligatory 7th continent picture!
Alas it was time to get back to the ship for some lunch and get ready for a special “expedition experience”. The ship never advertised it but a few of the expedition crew had let it slip once or twice that it was a possibility. I’m sure they only do it if weather is amiable for this last day. Funnily enough Mr. Wander and I had both participated in one before where we had dressed as penguins! Have you guessed what it is yet?
A Polar Plunge!! We were called by colors to the boot room in our swimsuits and robes. Usually this is where we get on and off the zodiacs in our parkas and waterproof pants. This time it was full of cushy bath mats and an impressive bar. They took our names down for who did the polar plunge and offered shots of liquid courage. Then we had to coat-check our robes and stash our sandals.
Next we got a very wet and cold belt put on our waists so they could clip a rope to us for safety during the jump. The coldest part was waiting on the stairs that did not have mats, and as my feet got cold I started to shiver. Finally, we made it to the bottom level that thankfully had the cozy mats and I felt a bit better, despite the woman before me swearing like she didn’t enjoy it.
We boarded the zodiacs, they connected our belts, and after a quick countdown we jumped off! It’s definitely a shock to the system. Just as I was getting back on the ship my friend reminded me “come on you’re fine, you’re genetically capable of handing arctic weather!” Which is true, according to one of those DNA tests I did. Thanks to them and Mrs. Penguin’s parents for the photos above from their balcony and waiting in the wing for their turn!
As we went upstairs to the room again we got some fresh towels and were reunited with our robes, only I was no longer cold! I have honestly never felt more alive and more energetic than that moment. It was better than any energy drink I’ve ever had!
We took a victory shot of whiskey and then took a glass of glühwein with us back upstairs. Instead of getting dressed the 4 of us wandered out to the hot tubs to enjoy the lovely weather. I was surprised that they weren’t full but it didn’t take long for others to get the same idea.
After that nights’ expedition briefing there was a short talk about the benefits of cold plunging. They also shared that 96 guests and 13 crew participated in the plunge. The presenter said he had made a pact that if anyone else jumps into cold water, he would do it with them, and shared several images of fun poses over the last few years of crewing in the Antarctic.
Some of the crew try to beat their record for how long they could stay in the water before getting out, some getting close to a few minutes. The world record is held by Wim Hof, known as the Iceman, who stayed in ice water for 4 hours and 2 minutes! I don’t think I even cracked 10 seconds.
That evening we soaked in the last views of the continent from the lounge as the ship made its way back to the South Shetland islands before speeding its way across the drake passage once more.
Days 11 and 12: Drake passage
The next few days were filled with more interesting talks about the treaty, Shackleton’s expedition, and medicines that can be found in the ocean. I did need to take one more Dramamine for the return trip and while it started calmer I think it had a few more extreme rolls on occasion and definitely more front to back pitching. They did announce a few days before we stated the passage that our stabilizers were not working, but apparently we had not used them on the way down and are only to help with the comfort and not needed for safety.
Our group also played several games, a new favorite was this deep sea diving game, and Uno Flip which starts like normal Uno but with a twist where you flip your cards to the back side which have a whole new set of special cards. Mr. and Mrs. Penguin also brought their switch so we had a few rounds of Mario Kart one of the evenings.
By about noon on our last day we arrived to the shelter of the beagle passage and enjoyed a steadier ship, however it was still pretty windy. The ship made it into port by about 7pm and some people decided to explore Ushuaia that evening, but it was pretty rainy and we opted to stay warm inside. We packed our bags that night so they would be brought to the flight for us the following day.
Back to Mainland and Saying Farewell
On our last morning we were able to sleep in a bit as we had an afternoon flight. Then we got off the ship and they let us explore Ushuaia for a few hours. A few people hunted for souvenirs and we enjoyed a fancy tea and coffee before we were bussed to the airport.
Mrs. Penguin and I played a few last games on the switch before it wsa time to board our flight. When we got into Buenos Aires, our flight had been delayed so we had to say a quick goodbye so they could make it to their international flight home in just a few hours! It was so sad to see them go, it was a fun time to all hangout and enjoy this amazing experience together.
Mr. Wander and I got ourselves a ride to our hotel closer to the city center and after dinner enjoyed sleeping on a bed that didn’t rock and roll. Funnily enough, I didn’t have sea legs when walking, but when I was sleeping it still felt like I was on a boat that was rocking! Took a few days before beds felt stationary again.
Next Time
In a complete change of scenery and climate, we spent the next few weeks exploring a hot and humid part of Argentina, in the north next to Paraguay and Brazil. At the end of last year I had gotten better at handling hot temperatures, after all our time in South East Asia and India. However, between Minnesota and Antarctica, all that tolerance had vanished and I just wasn’t prepared for the heat. Good thing I had an amazing waterfall to entice me out of the air conditioning! Until next time, Adios!
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